High Mountain Oolong (Gaoshan)
High mountain oolong (gaoshan cha) is lightly oxidized, ball-rolled Taiwanese oolong grown above about 1,000 m, prized for floral aroma, sweetness and thick texture.
Definition
Gaoshan, "high mountain", is the Taiwanese category for oolong grown at elevations of about 1,000 m and above. Cool temperatures, frequent fog and limited direct sunlight slow leaf growth, which builds sweetness, aroma compounds and a dense, creamy texture. Major growing areas include Alishan and Shan Lin Xi in central Taiwan, Lishan and the higher Da Yu Ling area near the Central Mountain Range, and Yushan. Most gaoshan is made from the Qing Xin cultivar, with some from Jin Xuan (known for a milky, buttery aroma) and Si Ji Chun. Processing is light: oxidation is usually around 15-25%, roasting is minimal or absent, and the leaf is rolled into tight balls. The liquor is pale yellow-green with floral, orchid, lilac and fresh fruit notes, and a sweet aftertaste. Production is limited to spring and winter harvests in many gardens, and higher gardens command higher prices. Da Yu Ling, at over 2,000 m in places, is among the most expensive. Some tea sold as gaoshan comes from lower Taiwanese elevations or from Vietnam, Thailand or mainland China.
In Depth
Brew at 90-100°C (194-212°F). Gongfu style: 5-7 g per 100-120 ml, first infusion 40-60 seconds to let the balls open, then 20-30 seconds and lengthening. Expect 6-10 infusions. Western style: 3 g per 250 ml for 3-5 minutes.
The opened leaf should be whole, thick and glossy, often a bud with two or three leaves on a stem, with little red at the edges. Many broken pieces or thin leaf suggest lower-grade or machine-harvested tea.
Because of the light processing, gaoshan is relatively perishable. Store unopened in vacuum-sealed packs, refrigerated if you will keep it for months, and drink within a year. Faded aroma and a dull, hay-like taste mean it is stale; a gentle roast can revive old stock into a different style.
See Also
- Alishan Oolong
- Taiwanese Oolong
- Elevation and Tea