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Origins & Cultivars

Anxi

Anxi is a county in southern Fujian, China, best known as the home of Tieguanyin and a major producer of rolled, ball-shaped oolong.

Definition

Anxi (安溪, Ānxī) is a county in Quanzhou prefecture in southern Fujian Province. It is one of the largest oolong-producing areas in China and the origin of Tieguanyin (铁观音, Iron Goddess of Mercy), one of the most famous Chinese teas. Local cultivars include Tieguanyin, Huangjin Gui (Golden Osmanthus), Benshan and Maoxie. Anxi oolong is made by withering, repeated tossing to bruise the leaf edges (yaoqing), a kill-green, then heavy rolling into tight semi-balls. Traditionally the tea was medium oxidized and charcoal roasted, giving a toasty, fruity, sweet cup. From the 1990s, a lighter style took over the market: less oxidation, little or no roast, a green color and a strong floral aroma. Anxi tea is distinct from Wuyi oolong in northern Fujian. Wuyi leaf is twisted into long strips and usually roasted dark, while Anxi leaf is rolled into balls and often greener. Both regions are called min (闽), after Fujian, with Anxi in southern Fujian (minnan) and Wuyi in northern Fujian (minbei).

In Depth

Brew Anxi Tieguanyin at 95-100°C (203-212°F). In a 100 ml gaiwan use 6-7 g, rinse briefly, then infuse for 20-30 seconds and add time gradually. The rolled leaf opens over the first two infusions and gives 6-8 good steeps.

The modern green style (qingxiang, 清香) should be stored airtight, ideally refrigerated, and drunk within about a year because its floral aroma fades. Traditional roasted styles (nongxiang, 浓香) keep longer and can be re-roasted.

When buying, check the wet leaf for thick, glossy leaves with reddened edges and an intact stem joint. Very cheap "Tieguanyin" is often made from other cultivars processed in the same way. Traditional roasted Anxi Tieguanyin, sometimes sold as tradition-style or aged, has become a niche product and is worth seeking out for comparison with the modern green style.

See Also

  • Southern Fujian Oolong
  • Rolled Oolong
  • Chinese Tea Regions